Spend Christmas in Italy: lights, markets and magic

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Why Christmas is a great time to visit Italy

Winter in Italy is quieter, cheaper and more relaxed than peak summer. You still get beautiful cities, great food, and culture, but with a different mood. Here is why I think Christmas in Italy is worth planning for:

• Fewer crowds at big sights, museums and churches

• Festive lights and decorations in almost every town

• Seasonal food like panettone, pandoro, struffoli and rich holiday meals

• Christmas markets for gifts you actually want to bring home

Italian Christmas traditions

Italian Christmas traditions change from region to region, and that is part of the charm. Here are a few things to look out for.

Presepe (nativity scenes)

The nativity scene, or presepe, is a huge part of Christmas here. You’ll see simple scenes in homes and churches, and entire streets filled with nativity figurines in places like Naples.

If you visit, pop into local churches and look for the presepe on display. Some are tiny and hand-made, others are complete works of art with moving parts, lights and water.

Vigilia di Natale (Christmas Eve dinner)

In many parts of Italy, Christmas Eve is just as important as Christmas Day. Families gather for a long dinner, often with a focus on fish and seafood, followed by midnight Mass.

If you are in Italy at this time, you’ll notice many restaurants offering set menus and streets going quiet as everyone heads home to be with family. It is a lovely way to see the country at its most authentic.

Krampus, Krampus!

If you’re in the far north of Italy in December, especially in South Tyrol and the Alpine areas, don't miss a chance to meet Krampus. This horned, half-goat, half-demon figure appears around the feast of Saint Nicholas. You’ll see groups of people dressed in shaggy costumes, wooden masks, and cowbells taking part in noisy Krampus runs through the streets.

It is loud, a little spooky, and completely different from the rest of Italy. Krampus traditions are tied to the Alpine world, so you won’t find this in Rome, Florence, or Naples. If you want a Christmas trip with a twist, planning a few days in the Dolomites or South Tyrol in early December is such a unique experience.

Sweet treats: panettone and pandoro

You can’t miss the tall boxes of panettone and pandoro stacked in every shop. Panettone is a rich, dome-shaped sweet bread with dried fruit, while pandoro is soft and buttery, dusted with icing sugar.

Trying both is almost a Christmas duty. I won’t tell you which one I prefer, but let’s say there is usually more than one box in our kitchen.

La Befana

In Italy, Christmas doesn’t end on December 25. The season stretches to Epiphany on January 6, when La Befana, a kind old woman, brings sweets for children.

If you visit around New Year’s and stay into early January, you’ll catch this extra holiday, more decorations, and a few more sweets in the shops.

Christmas markets, Italian style

Christmas markets in Italy are gaining momentum. Depending on where you go, the experience will differ. The northern regions offer a more similar experience to markets in Germany and northern countries. The further south you go, the markets feature more traditional Italian flavours, although you're likely to find mulled wine (vin brule) in most places.

If you love Christmas markets, Italy has quite a few worth planning a trip around. A few favourites to look up:

• Bolzano & Merano: Classic Alpine Christmas markets with wooden stalls, local crafts, and hot drinks. Perfect if you want that winter wonderland vibe.

• Trento: A lovely historic setting with traditional food, decorations, and regional products.

• Milan: Big-city shopping, a huge Christmas tree in Piazza Duomo, and several markets across the city.

• Florence: A German-style market in Piazza Santa Croce and more lights across the historic centre.

• Rome: The city transforms with festive lights and numerous markets. Don't miss Christmas World at Villa Borghese, but it gets busy, so book your tickets ahead of time.

Learn how to say “Merry Christmas” in Italian

If you’re visiting Italy at Christmas, it’s fun to know a few key phrases. The two most useful are:

• Buon Natale – Merry Christmas

• Felice Anno Nuovo – Happy New Year

If you have questions about planning a trip to Italy, just hit reply to this email. I read all my messages and love helping you plan meaningful trips. I might also feature your questions in a future blog post or podcast episode.

Alla prossima

Kasia